A studio entrance at Solage Calistoga in Calistoga, California (photo by Kenn Stearns)

Solage Calistoga is situated along Silverado Trail in Calistoga, CA. The property is billed as the “first full-service luxury resort in the valley,” but we found a far better experience could be had for luxury prices – apparently outside the “valley” – at Auberge du Soleil (15 miles away) or Meadowood (12 miles away) located in secluded hillside areas that evoke true luxury: seclusion, exclusivity, and hospitality.

I arrived at the property on a Friday in the summer, peak tourist season in the Wine Country. While I’m no enologist/oenologist, sommelier, vintner, or viticulturist – moderately serious wine lovers should stay away from the summer chaos. I got off to a bad start when neither of the two bellmen on duty offered to assist with my luggage – and they were not helping others. Maybe my rental car was too pedestrian. The check-in representative loudly announced my pre-paid rate, pointed out my “studio” on the map, and advised I drive to the room. Their cancellation policy, like the resort, is not friendly:

100% of the reservation including tax is due at time of booking. Any cancellations or no-shows within fourteen (14) days of arrival will result in forfeiture of all deposits. A cancellation processing fee of $35.00 will be charged should you cancel at any time after booking.

Each of the 89 rooms are photographed with idyllic bicycles neatly parked in a rack nearby. Mine remained locked to the rack for the entire stay – no one was certain how to unlock it. When I asked the manager about the “green” aspects of the property (solar panels are prominently visible on the roof) he wasn’t sure. The poolside bar was out of things I ordered, e.g. my Pinot Noir was served in a martini glass. The heralded Solbar restaurant service (a Michelin star!) and cuisine were below average. However, breakfast Saturday morning on the patio was a delight and the waiter exceeded expectations.

My favorite aspect of this luxury-less “resort” was watching it grow smaller in the rear view mirror when I drove away Sunday morning. There are so many places to visit and stay in the Wine Country. I cannot recommend Solage Calistoga for anything other than a nice breakfast.